“So I bought an old hotel on the fjord of Killary. It was set hard by the harbour wall, with Mweelrea mountain across the water, and disgracefully grey skies above. It rained two hundred and eighty-seven days of the year and the locals were given to magnificent mood swings.”
My most joyful reading experiences have sprung from the pages of Kevin Barry, to my mind the greatest short story writer at work today. If ever I need to reignite my love for reading and writing, I return to his second collection, Dark Lies the Island, and in particular to ‘Fjord of Killary’, a raucous story set at the Water’s Edge hotel bar.
“The people of this part of north Galway are oversexed,” says the narrator. “I had found a level of ribaldry that bordered on the paganistic.” The narrator is the owner of the hotel and a poet with creative block. His nine Belarusian bar staff are in varying degrees of sexual contact, his sleepless nights filled with “the sound of their rotating passions”.
Serving the locals Bushmills whiskey and Guinness stout, the hotel owner admonishes John Murphy, an “alcoholic funeral director” for leering at the “rear quarters of Nadia” the barmaid. “You’d do jail time for that,” says John while Mick Harty, “distributor of bull semen for the vicinity” grinds against his “enormously fat wife, Vivien”.
‘Fjord of Killary’ is set on a Bank Holiday Monday, “among the wettest bank holidays ever witnessed”. Outside the bar, the waters of Ireland’s only natural fjord rise up the harbour walls while dogs howl and a pair of minks head for the fields. Unlike the animals, the locals stay put, drinking at a quickened pace while the rain intensifies.
Barry’s love of language glitters in every sentence of this tragicomic masterpiece. Funny and poignant, ‘Fjord of Killary’ is rich with themes of ageing, creativity and pleasure.
First published in The New Yorker, 2010. Collected in Dark Lies the Island, Vintage, 2013. Read it online here